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Monday, March 30, 2020

Homemade pizza, sort of deep dish

Homemade pizza, sort of deep dish
I haven't felt like writing much, so I haven't been, although I've been reading a lot.

WRT this pizza, the recipe I used (different from the one I normally use, because inexplicably, I left that cookbook in DC), suggests bread flour instead of regular flour for a crisper crust.  That's what I found.  The crust was nice and crisp, even at only 425 degrees.

Note that I doubled the recipe for a sheet pan sized pizza, rather than a single round.

It took at least 5 minutes longer to cook, and I let the dough rise for a couple hours, but it worked fine.

The recipe suggested flavoring the crust.  I did so, with garlic and Trader Joe's Everything bagel spice.

But I used 2 of the 3 packets of yeast I have, and there is no yeast in stores...  And with the TJ spice, I should have cut down on the salt.

The dough did taste a bit "bready" but all along I've complained about crusts not being crisp enough.  This was a thicker crust too, which was more filling, and held up better to lots of toppings.

Sourdough starter.  Because sourdough starter has its own yeast, there is a lot of writing on the Internet about using sourdough to be able to bake, given that stores are definitely out of yeast, while here and there, some are able to stock limited amounts of flour and sugar, which was cleaned out originally (as are still, rice and beans, and mostly tuna fish, at least in our local stores).

There are recipes I want to try, such as these from the Washington  Post, "So long, Thomas’s: These no-knead English muffins are the ones to beat" and "No-Knead Whole-Wheat Bread" but I don't have enough yeast.

Craig LaBan's sourdough boule.

There is a cool article ("Finding sourdough magic at home with help from Lost Bread’s Alex Bois") by Craig LaBan, long time food writer for the Philadelphia Inquirer, about how local bakeries in Philadelphia are usually willing to give sourdough starter to people who ask.  From the article:
My initial attempt to mix flour and water to grow starter in a linen-covered plastic tub on my counter still looks like a take-out container of sludge with no sign of life.

Enter Alex Bois, and the gift of starter.

Bois, who first rose to prominence baking spiral-scored anadamas and roasted potato loaves at High Street on Market, has his own operation now, the Lost Bread Co. And not only is it still turning out exceptional loaves of thick-crusted whole grain breads (many Philly bakers, in fact, now have loaves back in circulation), Lost Bread is selling flour on weekends at its Fishtown storefront it mills from Pennsylvania grain — and is also giving away ready-to-use starter. ...

Bois isn’t alone. Other local sourdough specialists, Chris Di Piazza of Mighty Bread Co. in South Philly and Michael Dolich of Four Worlds Bakery in West Philly, are also willing to share their starters, which can be used and perpetuated.
I think that's pretty cool.  I am also wondering if some bakeries might be willing to sell yeast?  (In my area, at least one resident is offering up starter to her neighbors.  I haven't taken her up on it.

Food culture, civic agriculture, and local food systems.  This is what I am reading and thinking about, in writing a planning document for the 21st century public market, based on asking a couple questions around:
"What does a public market look like in the 21st century when most people's food needs can be well met by traditional supermarket options?"
Civic agriculture is a book on local food systems as a way to re-engage people and build civic participation around food.

An op-ed ("Coronavirus food shopping: It's time rethink how you buy") by a Penn State graduate student, Zachary Goldberg, also in the Inquirer, suggests that the pandemic's shelter in place response and the forced take up of cooking ("Before the coronavirus epidemic, they didn’t know how to cook. Now they are scrambling to learn," Washington Post) by many can lead to a rethinking of and reconnection to a more locally based food system.

13 comments:

  1. charlie8:55 AM

    I'm less sanguine than you on food supply chains.

    Good interview:

    https://slate.com/human-interest/2020/03/coronavirus-grocery-stores-supply-chain-draegers.html

    No question we're going to have an egg shortage. We're also going to have meat storage issues not sure how much capacity is there.

    I'd say in DC about half the restaurants that opened for "takeout" have closed up as they used up food stocks. U St is about as empty as before gentrification. Ben's is open but not much else.

    Blue Apron got a huge boost in the stock, but I'm not seeing many being delivered to my building.

    I'd say in DC almost all "locally owned" restaurants will close. If you're part of a mini-chain (Jose Andres) you might be able to get financing but you're looking at reduced demand for up to 24 months.

    Streets/Yes Market very well stocked, which does suggest the problem is panic buying by amazon delivery/instacart.

    Produce will be hard to get. can't wait for people to figure out the virus can live in produce.

    Good news is we've got enough soybeans and wheat to feed animals for the year if crops don't get planted. Not at all sure on the produce situation which requires imports.

    Nurseries are shut down. Luckily I found some lettuce plants at the hardware store, and some bibb letter survived the winter.

    Again the virus and associated deaths are manageable, even at 2 million. The economic body blow and destruction of consumer confidence -- and the global economic meltdown - is far far worse.

    https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/31/nyregion/coronavirus-landlords-eviction-tenants.html

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  2. I haven't speculated on the longer term issue of supply chains, true.

    Basically, what you say is happening with restaurants (exhausting current stocks, then closing) could well happen to the food chain, in terms of planting, growing, raising crops and animals.

    Although probably there is a lot of stock/inventory in terms of canned goods. Like after Krakatoa and "the year without a summer" we could have a year without fresh foods.

    One issue is re-jiggering supply from restaurants and institutional food service to supermarkets.

    There is an interesting story about HEB, the Texas based company, and how they have a relationship with an institutional food service supplier and have been able to take that company's food. But HEB has a large set of processing facilities.

    I don't know "how easy" it will be to do that generally. E.g., with eggs it seems easy, with other foods, not so much.

    But even then, as you say, what do you do if crops and animals can't be grown at all?

    ====
    WRT the general impact on economic activity, I definitely agree.

    There is an op ed in Politico and the writer says "we've chosen this recession" so it's different from 2008. And that it will be easier to get out of as a result.

    But it completely avoids consideration of the loss of jobs and businesses in the service-retail economy in the interim.

    Look at Cheesecake Factory saying they won't be paying April rent.

    The company that owns Gordon Biersch has had problems. Before the virus hit in earnest, they already closed locations. But yesterday they shut down the entire company.

    Cracker Barrel refused to provide more financing to Punch Bowl Social, which they controlled. Etc.

    Much harder for the independents like you say.

    Extend that across the retail sector. Many firms are going to be wiped out.

    This will be more like a Depression than 2008's GFC.

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  3. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/mar/31/virus-neighbours-covid-19

    This is the hopeful side.

    The unhopeful side is the incredible failures in Italy, Spain, the US, and the UK... (among others).

    e.g., the federal government as a failed state:

    https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2020/03/america-isnt-failing-its-pandemic-testwashington-is/608026/

    We've already discussed the Taiwan/Singapore/South Korea/Hong Kong monitoring and surveillance systems vs. the US.

    There is an opinion article in the Salt Lake Deseret News, "Our 'bounce-ability' determines our pandemic mettle" but my reaction was that it is polyannish.

    The Trump regime is fearful, anti-immigrant, small minded, anti-collaborative and is doing everything it can to shape the country in that guise.

    It makes it hard to bounce back and/or lead.

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  4. On a e-list in a different context I mentioned my transformational project action planning approach and the six points that I had developed vis a vis understanding Bilbao's revitalization program:

    1. visionary plan
    2. implementation organizations and mechanisms.
    3. financing
    4. branding and identity systems
    5. accountability mechanisms
    6. flexibility/ability to act serendipitously when opportunities are presented.

    But thinking about it and all the articles written about leadership these days, I wonder if that should be separate element, that you can't have a visionary plan or superlative implemenation mechanisms without leadership?

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  5. Anonymous1:23 AM

    In 1990, dear friends who lived in Chevy Chase and I were scheduled to visit the Waterford Fair on a weekend. Before we left for the Virginia countryside, they insisted that we stop at Marvelous Market and get a couple of loaves of olive bread, a new offering from the store, and it was delicious not to mention addictive. Later, in a long magazine or newspaper interview of MM's owner Mark Furstenberg, he revealed the secret of its unique deliciousness was the sourdough starter, which he had flown to California to obtain and bring back to his business. He's now reincarnated in Van Ness/Forest Hills with Bread Furst.
    https://www.zagat.com/b/5-things-we-learned-about-mark-furstenberg-and-bread-furst
    https://remarkablebreads.wordpress.com/
    -EE

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  6. charlie11:38 AM

    BreadFurst going strong.

    https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/31/opinion/coronavirus-food-supply.html

    Not a food supply expert so I can't judge. But every supply chain is complex, and throwing in logics and workforce shutdowns introduces massive complexity.

    Flour is out of stock at every grocery store we've been to in the last week.

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  7. Agree about complexity. Plus the issue of seeding crops and then harvesting and the n trucking and then processing and then redistributing over the course of the season.

    WRT stores, interestingly before all this, stock analysts were saying that Sprouts might be on its last legs, especially given the failure of Lucky and Earth Fare.

    I just saw a report that rated them a buy. Sprouts is turning out to be a good source for us for produce, meats and seafoods. A decent bulk section (although Winco far outspans them).

    I've been surprised that they (and other area stores I've been in) haven't raised prices to any significant degree. Although yes all had out of stocks, and I don't think they have toilet paper yet, plus bagged rice and beans and to some extent tuna fish still seem to be out of stock.

    E.g. Sprouts yesterday had 6 oz. raspberries for 98 cents on special and $1 for two (small) avocados.

    Harmons and Sprouts have been getting flour in after the first 10 days or so. Not tons. But some. I already had some (around here, the stores sell 10 lb. and 25 lb. bags anyway -- you don't see those now -- probably because of the Mormons, and I had a partial bag of regular flour, an unopened 10 lb. bag of bread flour, and a 5 lb. unopened bag of what flour, the latter two because I intended to but hadn't made bread).

    But my all purpose flour is getting used up. I am about to make some banana bread. That's another 4 cups...

    What I can't find anywhere is yeast. I haven't wanted to get sourdough starter, because I just don't think I can "keep it alive."

    ... but I miss Marvelous Market, and I love a good olive bread, so maybe I'll have to break down.

    I think I have figured out how to get yeast though.

    There is a food service chain that is still open, and is open to the public anyway and they might have it. They do on their website, but I don't know if they do in store. Suzanne has been a pain about going out to stores, and she hasn't been willing to go to that company (it's next to the main Target in the city). I can cycle there, but today is pretty cold and I'm being a wimp.

    I might have to just go the sourdough route.

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  8. for ee and charlie --

    should I add leadership as the first element to the existing 6 point list or is it enough to be subsumed in visionary plans, implementation organizations, and accountability mechanisms?

    wrt branding and identity systems, I have been delving into best practice marketing programs for grocery stores (mostly I've been looking at stores in Canada, but also Fairway Market in NYC and to some extent Harmons, although they are great at branding and identity, but could be better I think at marketing)... for thinking about Eastern Market.

    Really good branding and identity (and marketing) is about leadership too.

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  9. charlie2:53 PM

    I'd keep leadership out.

    Right now we're (as usual) overemphasizing charisma and underestimating planning.

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  10. speaking of supply chains:

    https://marker.medium.com/what-everyones-getting-wrong-about-the-toilet-paper-shortage-c812e1358fe0

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  11. Speaking of supply chains

    https://www.newstatesman.com/2020/04/why-crisis-turning-point-history

    "With all its talk of freedom and choice, liberalism was in practice the experiment of dissolving traditional sources of social cohesion and political legitimacy and replacing them with the promise of rising material living standards. This experiment has now run its course. Suppressing the virus necessitates an economic shutdown that can only be temporary, but when the economy restarts, it will be in a world where governments act to curb the global market.

    A situation in which so many of the world’s essential medical supplies originate in China – or any other single country – will not be tolerated. Production in these and other sensitive areas will be re-shored as a matter of national security. "

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  12. Brodflour, urban mill and bakery in Toronto, also giving away sourdough starter

    https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/article-the-science-behind-why-everyone-is-suddenly-baking-bread/

    4/11/2020

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