Rebuilding Place in the Urban Space

"A community’s physical form, rather than its land uses, is its most intrinsic and enduring characteristic." [Katz, EPA] This blog focuses on place and placemaking and all that makes it work--historic preservation, urban design, transportation, asset-based community development, arts & cultural development, commercial district revitalization, tourism & destination development, and quality of life advocacy--along with doses of civic engagement and good governance watchdogging.

Friday, July 18, 2025

Sometimes you've got to recognize reality and let things go: the diminishment of DC's "Chinatown" as an authentic place

 DC no longer has much of a "Chinatown," although there are some remnants, because as property prices increased and the central business district continued to grow and intensify, succeeding generations immigrated directly to the suburbs ("The End of the American Chinatown," Atlantic, 2019)  From "What makes a Chinatown Chinese?":

With traffic in no logic, streets that never seem to rest, and an earthy, old country-ish smell that greeted me on my arrival, I felt nothing but foreign in this town. All signs are in Chinese: advertisements, store windows, crates selling bok choy and other food items, newspapers, and street posters. I find myself part amused part clueless. 

San Francisco

My fascination with Chinatown began on my very first visit. As a starry-eyed tourist, I was left admiring the Chinese-style buildings and colorful elements adorning the bustling streets. I wondered what really made a Chinatown Chinese. What makes these ‘towns’ unique? Have they remained traditional as they were once? What led to the origin of Chinatowns across the globe in the first place? Below, I explore one such Chinatown in America.

For DC, that's the Annandale area of Fairfax County, which is also highly represented by other Asian ethnicities, in particular Vietnamese (which first moved to Clarendon in Arlington County post-fall of the South Vietnamese government, another example of emigrating directly to the suburbs) and Koreans.

This isn't an issue unique to DC -- "The politics of Chinatown development in American cities," Journal of Ethnic and Migration Studies

abstract:

Through a comparative case study of Chinatowns in Chicago, New York City, Oakland, and San Francisco, this paper argues that the variation in the trajectory of Chinatown development is contingent upon two major factors, namely, the internal cohesion of Chinatown elites (cohesive versus fragmented) and the political integration of the Chinese community into local politics (strong versus weak). Based on the two dimensions of internal cohesion and political integration, the paper creates a fourfold typology of Chinatown development: constrained development, shrinking neighbourhood, contested development, and comprehensive development. The typology provides an analytical framework to study the development of Chinatown and other ethnic communities beyond the cases.

-- "5 Chinatowns and the Communities Working to Preserve Them," National Trust for Historic Preservation 
-- Strategies for sustainable Chinatown, SF Planning
-- Revitalizing Chinatown Businesses: Challenges And Opportunities, Asian American Federation
-- "How to Save Chinatown: Preserving affordability and community service through ethnic retail," Berkeley Planning Journal
-- "Maintaining Authenticity in Ethnic Enclaves: Chinatown, Koreatown, and Thai Town, Los Angeles," masters thesis
-- "Chinatown: The Neoliberal Remaking of Culture in the Contemporary City," University of Chicago
-- "Rethinking the Growth Machine: How to Erase a Chinatown from the Urban Core," Urban Geography

-- "A New Chapter for the Eden Center?," Arlington Magazine
-- "At the Eden Center, historic businesses stand tall and new ones plant roots, ARLNow
-- "New Tools for Keeping Immigrant-Owned Shops in Place," (University of) Maryland Today

And wrt to government goals it becomes the tension between a thriving residential and commercial district and Asian identity ("Chinatown versus Chinese identity") versus an entertainment district.

Chinatown hasn't had "spectacular shopping" for decades. Gallery Place ad display, 2009.

But DC wants another try, according to the Washington Business Journal, "Tim Ma, Winston Lord tapped to lead next stage of Chinatown revitalization."  From the article:

Lord and Ma say they will act as a liaison between various legislative bodies and the community, connecting residents with programs and opportunities as well as leveraging their resources and connections with the District to mitigate challenges that community members are facing. 

The council, on first reading, also approved more than $8 million to fund construction of Gallery Square, a designated "high priority" project recommended by the task force, which aims to transform the space surrounding the Reynolds Center into a plaza that will host performances and markets. The council will consider the measure on second reading July 28.

But some residents and advocates aren’t convinced this plan will address the core challenges facing working-class Chinatown residents. Over the decades, the community has stood at a crossroads, balancing the increased foot traffic from large-scale developments with rising rent prices that have displaced small businesses and longtime residents.

This follows the creation of a "Chinatown Task Force" and aims to implement its findings.  It listed eight items as part of a presentation at an open house last year.

The Task Force’s focus areas include: 

  • Visioning: Develop a strategic vision for the future of the two city blocks that make up the Capital One Arena and Gallery Place, and reimagine the potential for amenities, activities, and new uses for this vibrant neighborhood. 
  • Activation: Identify temporary and permanent activation programs, including special events, to generate foot traffic and increase visitation to Gallery Place/Chinatown. The Task Force will identify and coordinate activities to enhance public safety, cleanliness, and public health resources in and around Gallery Place/Chinatown.
  • Investments and Incentives: Source, evaluate, and recommend investment tools to support stabilization of existing businesses, prioritize critical capital investments, and reposition real estate assets into new productive uses.
  • Community Engagement and Marketing: Promote community activations and provide updates about changes and planning for the future of Gallery Place/Chinatown.

I think it's a lost cause, not just because of the proximity of Capital One Arena, home to professional basketball and hockey, but because you can't have an ethnic district without ethnic residents and businesses (""Richard's Rules for Restaurant (Food) Based Revitalization, Salt Lake City and DC's Chinatown").  Even though the Task Force came up with a decent plan if you look at it in a vacuum separate from the reality on the ground.

-- 5 Goals for Chinatown, DC Planning

Chinatown only has a few hundred Asian residents, and has been shrinking ever since the construction of the original Convention Center in 1984.  The Task Force committee only had one Asian member, and all the co-chairs are Anglo or Black.

Are they going to provide incentives for Chinese people to live there?  From the 2013 blog entry, "Sometimes shouldn't you just call it a day: maintaining DC's Chinatown":
I think it's time to call it a day on Chinatown. For a long time, it's been Gallery Place. A handful of Chinese restaurants, a couple stores selling Asian knick-knacks, some lightpoles, and a senior housing building that looks the same as any other housing building constructed in the 1960s or 1970s doesn't make a place "Chinatown."

Compared to thriving Asian communities within other cities, such as Chinatown in Manhattan or the Chinatownization of Main Street Flushing (see "In Neighborhood That's Diverse, a Push for Signs" and "The Melting Pot on a High Boil in Flushing" from the New York Times), putting Chinese characters on signs for restaurants and other retail establishments just doesn't cut it.

Salt Lake City and Japantown.  Apparently there was a Japanese district on the edge of downtown, although it was pretty much eradicated a few decades ago with the construction of the Salt Palace Convention Center, where like Chinatown in DC, the core of the district was lost as 93 businesses closed and the population dispersed.

Down to a single block, two religious institutions--a Christian church and a Buddhist temple--remain.

As part of the creation of a "sports and entertainment district" around Delta Center arena, which now has both professional basketball and hockey after last year's relocation of the Phoenix Coyotes, there are plans for rebuilding this district ("At Nihon Matsuri festival, Salt Lake City Japantown leaders consider risks, merits of sports district," Salt Lake Tribune, "Cautious optimism for Salt Lake City Japantown’s future," Nichi Bei News).

From the SLT article:

And while project leaders say it will ultimately improve Japantown, local leaders who remember losing the culture hub to eminent domain and development in the 1960s are skeptical.

“I grew up here, and I remember as a child coming to Japantown and it was a cultural gathering place in those days,” said Floyd Mori, the festival founder and chair. “That was lost. It just went poof because all the commercial establishments were eliminated.”

I didn't know, being a recent transplant to the city, that movement for restoration predates the current Arena-related program  ("Revitalizing Japantown Street," University of Utah Alumni Magazine, Japantown Visioning Project).

I think it's headed for the same end as DC's Chinatown.  While one of the above-cited works includes a reference to Japantown in Los Angeles, the same dynamics pertain to other ethnic districts be they Japanese, Italian, Polish, German, Hispanic, Greek, Jewish districts, etc. 

If you lose the dynamism of the immigrant migration chain--first to the city then to the suburbs instead of direct to the suburbs, ethnic residents and businesses, and a strong demand for ethnically-related business activity rooted in serving the native population, there isn't enough economic, residential, and social activity to maintain the integrity of the district.

Dynamics of district failure can be extended beyond ethnic enclaves.  Thinking about the paper,,"The politics of Chinatown development in American cities" (Journal of Ethnic and Migration Studies, I realize the dynamics of ethnic district shrinkage are likely the same for other types of "districts" in cities be they ground-up developed arts districts that lose out to real estate development, working ports that are replaced by waterfront entertainment districts, New York City's garment district, etc.

Deeper insights into the Growth Machine thesis ("The City as a Growth Machine: Toward a Political Economy of Place," American Journal of Sociology). I am thinking this dissertation is well worth a complete read, because its findings along with some of the key cited works, are very much extendable to the analysis of other types of development within cities, especially in terms of decision making.  Its findings might be a very good extension to Growth Machine Theory--the book Urban Fortunes is cited, although the author doesn't believe that the theory is particularly applicable to understanding the growth and decline of Chinatowns..

I argue the Urban Regime Theory of political science provides the explanation for "how" the Growth Machine works.  The findings of this dissertation could take that further.

=======


"Unrelated" is the value of immigration to the revitalization of cities facing out-migration and broken economies, e.g., the Somalis in Minneapolis-St. Paul, Portugese in various East Coast cities, etc.  Writer Doug Saunders captures this in the book Arrival City ("Arrival City: How the Largest Migration in History Is Reshaping Our World by Doug Saunders," Guardian).  Although Saunders focuses on much larger cities.

And the attack on immigrants by the Trump Administration. Which fails to acknowledge the importance of immigrants both to the national economy as well as to local economies, some extremely small, like Denison, Iowa.

-- "Immigrants as in-migration and city-town revitalization," 2024

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6 Comments:

At 2:42 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

https://archive.ph/KzP2F
Crain's Chicago Business, 7/30/25

Greektown is getting a new Greek restaurant — and maybe a second act

The 5,500-square-foot restaurant is aiming to flip a years-old script for Greektown. The neighborhood — which stretches four blocks from Van Buren to Madison on South Halsted Street — has steadily lost Greek-owned restaurants over the past decade. Rampant development of the nearby Fulton Market District has poured in, raising property values, bringing hot restaurant competition and transforming the neighborhood that invented flaming saganaki.
Costa’s, the restaurant Demos’ family once operated at 340 S. Halsted, burned down in 2010. A residential building now stands in its place. Pegasus Restaurant and Taverna, which closed in 2019 after 27 years, was also replaced with a luxury apartment building. So was Santorini, a restaurant that operated for 31 years at Halsted and Adams but never reopened after COVID shutdowns. The Pan Hellenic Pastry Shop shuttered in 2017. A cannabis dispensary replaced Roditys, a restaurant that once stood at 222 S. Halsted. The list goes on.

... “The reality was: That land was far more valuable to develop into a high rise,” said Louis Alexakis, who, before he founded Greek restaurant Avli, spent decades working at his father-in-law’s Greektown restaurant, Greek Islands.
The neighborhood once teemed with Greek-run restaurants, pastry shops, night clubs and grocers. Many of their founders had immigrated to Chicago, arriving in their teens or early 20s. They landed jobs working in restaurants and later went on to open their own spots. In Greektown, their language and culture were alive and well, as was their success: The strip’s easy access from Interstate 90 and the Eisenhower Expressway and its proximity to the United Center drew diners in droves. The restaurants there served thousands in a night, and employed hundreds.

At Greek Islands, the wait for a table regularly reached two hours, Alexakis said. He recalled a night in the 1990s when the 400-seat restaurant served 2,100 people on a Chicago Bulls playoff night. In those days, 30 servers worked the floor, and the restaurant could sell 20 whole sides of lamb on a busy day.

 
At 7:35 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

Boston wants to revamp Chinatown zoning. Will it be enough to blunt gentrification

https://www.bostonglobe.com/2025/01/07/metro/boston-chintatown-rezoning-gentrification

 
At 3:26 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

An old-school Chinatown market tried hanging on. Assaults, raids, gentrification proved too much

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2025-08-14/yue-wa-market-closing-chinatown-gentrification

Yue Wa Market will close at the end of September after 18 years in business.
The family behind the market cites the pandemic, ICE raids, gentrification and burglaries as contributing factors.
The closure will leave Chinatown residents with even fewer options for fresh produce and basic market necessities.

“I don’t feel ready to let go of the store, but there’s not much I can do to bring more people in,” she said. “Business was booming and a lot of people used to come around, but now there is no foot traffic and a lot of people have moved away from Chinatown.”

Tran has watched the neighborhood change from a bustling historic enclave where many Asian immigrants live and work, to what is starting to feel like “a ghost town.” Chinatown is where she settled after immigrating from Vietnam in the ’90s. Her son was born at the pink hospital on Hill Street. With no formal education, she worked in restaurants in the area before taking over an herbal supplement and tea shop in 2007.

... “Most of the old folks didn’t want to walk all the way into the store, so she found that most of her business was happening on the sidewalk,” Luu said. “She sort of started the trend in Chinatown of putting the produce out on the street.”

The need for fresh produce and other market goods grew over the years as the existing stores in the area started to close, and Chinatown was left without a real nexus for its Asian ethnic communities. Ai Hoa and G&G, two long-standing full-service grocery stores, closed in 2019. Other shops in the area attempted to fill the void, with the bookstore next to Yue Wa selling a selection of produce and Banh Mi My Dung, a sandwich shop around the corner, following suit.

... “Even with the low prices, business was good until around 2016, when I started seeing all the art galleries and trendier restaurants coming to the neighborhood,” Luu said. “We started noticing our community members leaving.”

Tran also contemplated leaving and setting up shop somewhere in the San Gabriel Valley, but the ties to her Chinatown community were too strong. And her decision to close the shop goes far beyond the gentrification of Chinatown and the surrounding areas.

 
At 10:19 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

https://www.cleveland.com/news/2024/07/is-clevelands-little-italy-in-danger-of-being-loved-to-death.html

Balancing preservation and change

A square-mile in area, the long, thin neighborhood hugs the flank of the Portage Escarpment, the steep hillside that separates Cleveland’s University Circle from the suburb of Cleveland Heights.

Little Italy achieved its identity in the late 19th century, with the arrival of immigrants escaping poverty in southern Italian regions, including Catania, Abruzzo, Molise and Sicily, long disrespected by the country’s more prosperous north. Russo’s family members, for example, hailed from small hill towns in Sicily; his wife Patricia’s family came from Abruzzo.

Little Italy’s fortunes declined after World War II, when children and grandchildren of early 20th-century immigrants moved to suburbs. “They couldn’t get out of here fast enough,” Russo said.

The neighborhood revived in the 1980s after the collapse of organized crime. Art walks and other activities improved its image, along with mainstays, such as the annual Feast of the Assumption, which will mark its 125th year on Thursday, August 15, and the annual Columbus Day Parade, which Russo has chaired for 20 years.

Coping with new pressures

But change is also apparent. Residents have grown accustomed to a constant flux of Case Western Reserve University students renting apartments. But pitched verbal battles have been fought over big new apartment projects at hearings of the Cleveland Landmarks Commission, which has jurisdiction over the neighborhood as a city historic district.

Controversy erupted in 2017-18 over a proposed apartment block at East 119th Street, opposite the new Red Line rapid transit station built by the Greater Cleveland Regional Transit Authority. Other fights occurred in 2019 over proposed new apartments on Cornell Road, next to the former Barricelli Inn at the corner of Cornell and Murray Hill roads. Both projects were eventually built.

“I’m not aware of actual displacement,” from rising property values and taxes, Marinucci said, but he added: “I’m aware of the concerns.”

A museum brought back to life

Stabilizing the neighborhood isn’t simply a matter of regulating urban design and tax policy. It’s also about preserving cultural identity.

... Dean, who holds a master’s degree in public history from Kent State University, emphasizes that Little Italy is Italian-American, not Italian. The neighborhood embodies immigration, but also assimilation and adaptation, which wasn’t always easy.

 
At 10:57 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

https://www.detroitnews.com/story/news/local/detroit-city/2025/07/26/chinatown-block-party-seeks-to-build-unity-grow-community-in-detroit/85357534007/

https://archive.ph/QvwIf

Chinatown Block Party seeks to build unity, grow community in Detroit

On Saturday, the Detroit Chinatown Vision Committee hosted a block party as a celebration of the area's history and hopes for its continued growth as a cultural center.
The area was once a 20th-century enclave of Chinese businesses and residences and Yee-Litzenberg, lead organizer of the event, said it was a way to remind people of what once was and what can be created in the future.

 
At 11:27 PM, Blogger Richard Layman said...

Inside Chinatown’s Last Chinese Businesses
We met people who are hanging on in the changing DC neighborhood.

https://www.washingtonian.com/2025/10/21/inside-chinatowns-last-chinese-businesses

Lin moved to Chinatown, where she still lives, in 2005 and has watched the neighborhood’s transformation over the past two decades. “Stores that sell things representing Chinese culture have all closed,” she says. “Now it’s just foreign stores. DC Chinatown was small to begin with, without a lot of people or Chinese people. But now what’s left is even smaller, with just a lot of elderly people.”

Joy Luck House opened in 1993, and Lin took it over in 2019. The restaurant struggled through the pandemic, and business hasn’t really recovered. “Chinatown used to be a tourist destination,” she says, “but now it’s not. Business now is not very good.” And prices for ingredients like eggs and beef are high. “It’s hard, but I know it’s hard for everyone. It’s not just me.” Joy Luck House’s lease is up in September 2026, and Lin is already talking with the landlord, trying to extend it. “Obviously, I hope that we can keep running our business,” she says. “But we need to be able to survive, too. If not, we’d have no choice but to close.”

As Lin points out, the presence of Chinese businesses and restaurants is what makes Chinatown a cultural center rather than just a name, and she thinks it’s important not only to save current businesses but to attract new ones. “I hope Chinatown can become more beautiful,” she says. “Don’t let it look more and more rundown and desolate.”

========
https://www.washingtonian.com/2016/05/23/great-fall-chinatown-restaurants/

The Great Fall of Chinatown

Thirty years ago, if you wanted the best Chinese food in the area, you’d go to Chinatown. The DC neighborhood around Sixth and H streets, Northwest, offered a wealth of Szechuan and Cantonese eateries, many of which were regulars on our annual best-restaurants list. You could get your shopping done, too: Markets thrived, and families who’d moved out of the neighborhood would return to stock their kitchens.

Now? The food markets are gone, and if you want the area’s best Chinese food, you go to Rockville.

How did Chinatown become virtually devoid of anything Chinese? By losing most of its Chinese residents. In 1970, there were roughly 3,000; today, the Mayor’s Office on Asian and Pacific Islander Affairs sets that number below 600. Many are elderly residents of two low-income housing developments.

Washington’s top ethnic-restaurant pockets (Falls Church’s Eden Center, Annandale’s Koreatown) are located in immigrant communities—which leads us to Montgomery County, where roughly 15 percent of the million-plus population is Asian, according to 2014 census data.

For longtime Chinatown residents and businesses, the exodus from city to suburbs was sparked by the ’68 riots and continued through decades of construction that took over sections of the neighborhood—the building of Metro in the ’70s, then the first convention center in the ’80s and the Verizon Center in the ’90s. Meanwhile, many Chinese opted for the burbs for the same reasons as everyone else: stronger schools and better government. Rent increases then priced out businesses and residents.

As a response to Chinatown’s dwindling identity, the DC Office of Planning instituted the Chinatown Cultural Small Area Action Plan in 2009. Proposed initiatives included a Chinese culinary school, street markets, and Asian retail. As of March, 35 of the 46 proposals have seen no action or been canceled. One success: the launch of a free bus that runs to Asian groceries in the suburbs so the remaining seniors can shop.

“Chinatown is a themed place,” says Raymond Wong, who teaches at the Chinatown Community Cultural Center. “It’s like Disneyland as far as authenticity is concerned.”

 

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